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Panama's Arts & Crafts - Molas

Posted by: producer
August 12, 2003

In many cultures certain crafts are considered the province of women. Very young girls learn by mimicking their mothers' craft-making techniques; often, they are proficient before they are ten years old. Although a "women's craft" in one culture may be a "men's craft" in another (gender assignments are almost always as inexplicable as they are inviolable), all the crafts in this book are considered in their societies to be women's crafts.

Molas - intricate, layered, appliquéd pictures showing contemporary life, recent history and popular culture - form the front and back panels of the blouses that Kuna Indian women wear in the San Blas Archipelago off the east coast of Panama. Molas begin with reverse appliqué technique: stacked fibers are slashed and colors in the lower layers are pulled to the surface; after they are sewn in place, more colors are stitched on top using traditional appliqué techniques. Kunas credit their ancestress, Kicadiray, with creating their women's colorful clothing, including Molas. Molas are sold as pillow covers, place mats and framed art.

Source: How to Make A Mola

Tools and Supplies: The tools and supplies needed to design and make a Mola are simple and basic: cotton fabric, thread, a pencil, sissors, a thimble and a needle. In the 1970s, the Peace Corp arrived in the San Blas Islands with treadle sewing machines. Their purpose was to help the Kuna Women in their mola making by teaching them how to use these machines. The artists quickly rejected the automation and returned to the simple needle and thread process to accomplish their intricate work. A sewing machine is sometimes used to secure Molas to garments, purses and other commercial items. A collector will occasionally find a machine stitched mola from the '70s. (Click on the photo for a closer look at the tools.)

Construction and Design: A mola panel can have two to seven layers of cloth. The layers of fabric, cut in rectangles, are basted together and a design is sketched with pencil on the top layer of cloth. Some of the more experienced Kuna women can work without sketches. The fabric most often selected for use in making a Mola is cotton. Red, black and orange are the dominant colors used, however, every color imaginable can be found in the accent fabrics used. (Click on the photo for a closer look at the pencil sketch.)
The Indian artists are inspired by everything when determining a theme for their Molas. The dominance of realistic objects in Mola motifs stems from an observance of nature in everyday jungle and village life; to the other extreme, images conjured from dreams, fantasies and pure imagination, including abstracts of monsters and devils.

Nature unquestionably dominates the Mola theme: birds, animals, sea-life, plants and flowers are the subject of many pieces. Tribal teachings, superstitions and village life are also recorded in the fabric panels. The influx of North Americans after the construction of the Panama Canal gave the Kuna women even more subjects to sew into their blouses. The wealth of graphic images from magazines, comic books, trademarks, labels and advertisements offer endless ideas for Mola design. Of course, traditional geometric cut-outs remain popular.

Cutting and Sewing: Fabric is snipped away, closely following the design, to reveal the lower layers of fabric. The cut is made through one or more layers to reveal the selected accent color. The raw edges of the cut section are notched to avoid bunching, turned under and stitched, permanently exposing the lower layer of fabric and creating the intended pattern. The artist of the mola on the left used three full layers of fabric in traditional reds and black with several smaller sections of fabric in primary colors for accent to create her design. (Click on the photo for a closer look at how the cloth is layered!)

In general, larger patterns are cut from the top piece and, progressively, smaller patterns are cut from the successive under layers. Cutting through to various levels is not always done in sequence but according to the whims of the seamstress.

Note: When a color is chosen for a small section of the Mola, the artist often inserts a small piece of fabric in only the area where it will be used. If you look closely at Mola-20, you can see the outline of the middle layer of cloth (black fabric) used as an accent color in this predominantly red, yellow and blue mola, cut away so it does not interfere with other pieces of cloth in different colors which the artist also used for accent.

Stitches: The more traditional Mola is pure applique, however, some artists of late are using embroidery stitches (#1 in photo) to enhance their work. Most of the Mola is sewn with a blind stitch or hem stitch (#2 in photo, #3 in photo). Sewing machines (#4 in photo) were used for a brief time in the 1970s and are used to attach the finished Mola to a garment or to other commercial items. (Click on the Mola for a closer look at the various stitches used.)

RELATED LINKS:

MOLA PHOTO INDEX
JOHANNA'S MOLA COLLECTION

Posted by producer at August 12, 2003 02:37 PM


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Posted by: eddie at May 27, 2005 02:43 PM